REVIEW: Sushi-Ya rolls into Cache Valley

D. WHITNEY SMITH

I’ve lived in Cache Valley for a little more than two years and — even though I thoroughly enjoy a wide range of Asian cuisine and eat seafood at least twice a week — it wasn’t until recently, I finally decided to see what kinds of sushi Logan has to offer.

Everyone I’ve asked suggests either the Black Pearl or Happy Sushi — one or two people actually mentioned Takara. Someday, I’m sure I’ll wander into at least two out of three of those places, but as of yet I haven’t been to any of them. For my first experience, though, I decided to check out the latest addition to the Cache Valley sushi repertoire, and it goes by the name Sushi-Ya.

Before I discuss my experience, I’d like to discuss a couple of topics that frequently come up among the cow-loving, overcooked-meat-and-potatoes crowd that predominantly populates our beautiful valley.

First, as a waiter I would get cross looks of bewilderment as I described dinner specials that included items such as King salmon or Alaskan snow crab. Customers would usually ask a predictable joke that went something like, “Did you catch the fish in the Logan River?” After some forced laughter, I would go on to explain that fish can be flash frozen and flown in to any place with an airstrip. Yes, it costs more — which is why seafood is usually a high-ticket item — but the freshness and quality of the fish is not lost in the process. More often than not, my explanation was met with skepticism, at best, and people would proceed to order the chicken.

Second, I’d like to dispel any rumors that eating raw seafood will surely leave a person deathly ill. It is true that raw and undercooked seafood that is mishandled or of poor quality can cause sickness, but this is part of the enjoyment of eating sushi — not everyone is brave enough to do so. Besides, have you seen some of the stuff they grill on a stick in some Asian countries? If whole cultures of people are comfortable eating raw fish, I’m confident it’s safe to eat; the chances of getting sick are certainly slimmer than, say, with raw chicken or ground beef.

I’m pleased to say Sushi-Ya offers well-handled, high-quality seafood, and for $18.95 I opted for the all-you-can-eat treatment. Since I was alone, I sat at the bar where a waitress brought me a Dr Pepper. Then, I was greeted by my personal chef, a woman who spoke little English — which is perfect, seriously — I always feel more comfortable eating ethnic food when it’s prepared by someone who is likely from the country where the recipe originated.

Like any good restaurant patron I asked the chef for recommendations. She suggested, for starters, that I have the Godzuki roll. Good choice. This woman knew I hold very little regard for my taste buds — at least when it comes to spicy things. The Godzuki was doused in Sriracha, which is a hot sauce made from sun-ripened Thai chilies. Thai chilies are — no joke — super spicy, plus they enhance the flavor profile when mixed with soy sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger.

By the time I was finishing the last two portions of my first roll, the smiling chef was passing another roll to me over the counter. This one, she said, was a standard tempura shrimp roll. At that point, I felt I was off to a great start and moving at a pace that would promote a good level of all-you-can-eat endurance. As that thought vaporized in the lingering heat of Thai chili sauce, I realized I was wrong. Another sushi chef joined in on the attack and handed me a roll called the CK Special — crystal shrimp and spicy crab rolled in rice and seaweed, then topped with avocado and crab, with a spicy teriyaki sauce.

The CK Special was one of my two favorite rolls — the other being the upside-down shrimp roll — but it didn’t take long to realize these happy, smiling sushi chefs had me in their cross-hairs. Fifteen minutes and eight rolls into my Sushi-Ya experience, I was deliriously drunken with seafood. I was counting the plates in front of me and trying to use math equations to figure out if I would make it out of the restaurant alive. The sushi was fresh, delicious and all up in my face. I don’t think the chefs knew I was going to write a review, but they sure acted like they wanted to impress me; and they did.

I give Sushi-Ya an A plus. I’m definitely going back. The interior is still that of a Mexican restaurant. There was also a ladder hanging from the wall and an unfinished tank that I was told will be a fish pond. My waitress told me that when the interior is finished Sushi-Ya will have a grand opening. I suggest to all readers who enjoy eating sushi in a landlocked state the way I do — make your way to Sushi-Ya for a full-on sushi assault.

Sushi-Ya borders south Logan and north Providence, located in the same shopping center as Walmart and Rumbi Island Grill. Specifically, it’s in the building that used to be occupied by Bajio Mexican Grill. For the sake of the owners and employees of Sushi-Ya, I hope business thrives. The restaurant is in its second week of operation and, according to one of the sushi chefs, business is steady.

 

— D. Whitney Smith is originally from Pennsylvania and moved to Utah five years ago. After 11 years’ experience waiting tables at a total of 23 restaurants, he decided to hang up his server apron and enroll at USU. Have suggestions for a restaurant to review? Email him at dan.whitney.smith@aggiemail.usu.edu.