Steps across Europe
Four hundred and twenty-two steps to the top of Notre Dame, 900 feet up the Eiffel Tower, 284 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and 420 feet to Sacré-Coeur, which is resting upon the city’s highest point.
Within the first few days of my recent trip to Europe, I had scaled everything possible in Paris, France. The grueling climbs were always worth it. The tops of the famed landmarks presented beautiful views of the city. However, to my surprise, I soon discovered the underground offered equally breathtaking sites. And so I scended 286 steps to the so-called Empire of Death, the resting place of more than 6 million Parisians.
The entrance to the catacombs is small, unnoticeable. Upon entering, visitors are then directed to steep spiral staircases. Before seeing any remains, I also had to walk through many dimly lit tunnels.
Because of a threat to public health during the late 1700s, remains from every cemetery in Paris were moved to the catacombs. Initially, bones were simply tossed into piles but after a decree from Napoléon I in 1810, the careful placement of skulls and bones was required.
After a long walk through the twisting tunnels, I finally reached the remains. I was amazed. It was unbelievable. The skulls and bones are packed into neatly stacked rows-some as much as 80 feet deep and five feet high. The skulls and bones are piled to create unique designs, some placed as crosses and skull-and-crossbones. The walk through seemed to last an eternity-the display of human remains goes on and on but never did I lose interest.
Moisture was seeping in through the ceiling and the walls causing the air to be damp and cool.
The catacombs were eerie and left me feeling lonely. After the climb up to the sunlit and lively streets of Paris, I could not have been happier to again be among the living.
My family and I have visited Europe many times. Taking only a small backpack, eating bread and cheese, sleeping on the trains, and traveling without any sort of itinerary, I believe it is the only way to truly experience Europe. During my trip in June, I traveled with my mother and a friend.
After a few days in Paris, we took a night train to Venice, Italy. Venice is best discovered on foot. While most wouldn’t step out of their hotel without a map, I lead by memory and go whichever direction looks best. Getting lost is inevitable. It is in these moments of confusion one discovers the small quaint pizzerias, ornate bridges and the world’s best gelato.
During our stay, we rode in a gondola with Bruno, a gondolier we claim as our own. This was our fourth ride with Bruno. My family and I first met him in 1997 and, amazingly enough, he has remembered us through the years.
We left Venice for Salzburg, Austria-the birthplace of Mozart and stage of “The Sound of Music.” While we were there, we visited the St.Peter’s Cemetery. The set of one of the last scenes in the musical was modeled after this cemetery. Those laid to rest in Salzburg are required to pay rent on their cemetery plot every 10 years. If
families do not make the payment, the occupant is evicted.
After a short stay, we took an unexpected trip to Madrid, Spain. Salzburg to Madrid was an exhausting 30-hour train ride.
While we were there, the Real Madrid soccer team was competing against Majorca’s soccer team for the country’s championship. The game, which compares to America’s Super Bowl, put the whole city in chaos. Fans were everywhere-singing, dancing and cheering. They were dressed in their team’s attire and many had their faces painted. We were staying in Madrid with a friend who took us passed the soccer stadium just before the game. It was insane. Police were struggling to maintain control.
We returned to Paris by night train after three days in Madrid, ending the trip where it began-my favorite city in all the world. As I made my last midnight stroll to the Eiffel Tower, I wasn’t counting the steps.
Arie Kirk, left, with mothers and friend during stay in Venice.