Column: An Aggie in the Amazon
When I got off the plane in Leticia, Colombia, the first thing I noticed was the pervasive heat. It reminded me of the hot North Carolina summers I experienced as a teenager.
Why go to such a hot and humid place? As a child, I remember reading the Magic Treehouse book “Afternoon in the Amazon,” and I was fascinated by the animals and plants Jack and Annie encountered on their fictional journey.
I wanted to experience this infamous jungle for myself.
Leticia, Colombia is in the Tres Fronteras — translated to literally Three Borders — region at the junction of Brazil and Peru. The Amazon River flows next to the town providing a much needed source of transportation through the dense jungle.
When I met our tour guide, William, he issued me a pair of rubber boots. I joined the other members of our group and started up stream.
The Amazon River is the largest on Earth. In Leticia, the river is just beginning a long journey to the ocean and already is larger than our Mississippi. As we motored up the river, we saw both gray and pink dolphins splashing in the water.
A unique aspect of my experience in Colombia is meeting many visitors from other parts of the world. This tour was no different. Along with two other Americans, I made friends from Spain, New Zealand, England and Peru.
We started up a small tributary of the Amazon to a native village.
William explained, “The natives promote tourism but not in the way you’d expect. They aren’t going to speak to you beyond a wave and maybe a hello. The welcome you receive is being allowed on this land.”
On the tributary we saw many beautiful birds. One of my favorites is known locally as Mamá Vieja because of the animal’s loud whining calls. The bird is bigger than an eagle and majestic in flight. The bird is known internationally as the black-collared hawk.
William knew the name and could imitate the call of every animal. He later informed me he studies biology books to maintain his knowledge and recently guided a tour for National Geographic. I felt safe in the wilderness thanks to his competence.
When we stepped off the boat into the jungle, he said, “One rule, don’t touch anything — insects that bite and sting are everywhere.”
We hiked to a nearby village from the tributary and ate a lunch of pirarucu, a freshwater fish that grows over 10 feet long. The food was served with fried plantain and rice.
Every year the jungles of the Amazon flood, making the forest accessible only by boat. Every structure in the village was built 10 to 15 feet above the ground to remain above water in the wet season.
In the distance, some local children were swimming in the small river. One climbed a tree and did backflips into the water to impress us.
In the Amazon, mosquitos are everywhere. The walls in each structure consist of netting stapled to wooden studs. The insects are gigantic and spread Malaria.
William said, “People think the most dangerous killers in the jungle are the jaguar or caiman, but in reality the insects are the true killers — wear repellent.”
We continued our tour deep into the jungle via a trail of wooden planks placed 2 to 3 feet above the ground.
As we trekked, the wood planks were quickly submerged in the murky water. William cut us all walking sticks with his machete, explaining they were for balance and keeping away snakes. Soon the water was up to my shins even with the elevated planks.
The portion of the jungle we explored was in Peru.
William is a Peruvian who travels to different parts of the river doing tours. He speaks Portuguese, Spanish and English. Many native tribes populate the Amazon, some so deep in the jungle they remain untouched by the outside world.
As the water grew deeper, we came across two wooden boats that took us to our destination. At first, William guided the boat with long wooden sticks, so heavy they sank into the water when dropped. Eventually the water became deep enough to use the motor.
The jungle was thick and difficult to navigate. As our boat exited the jungle canopy, I heard William yell, “Welcome to Piranha Lake!”
I asked if the piranhas prevented us from swimming. I was surprised when he responded, “Piranhas are some of the friendliest animals in these waters. I’d wait until we get back to the river to swim.”
That night we stayed in a large floating house in the middle of the lake. The tour guides took us out that night to catch caiman.
William handed me a caiman longer than my arm and explained, “If he starts to wriggle free, don’t let go. Instead pull him close to your body to remain in control.”
That night after dinner, William gave us unfortunate news.
“Even in my lifetime, I have seen a decrease in the plants and animals present in the jungle. This area exists in a cycle — if one part of that cycle breaks, it can have lasting impacts,” he said.
The next day we fished for piranhas using pieces of chicken for bait. The piranhas often managed to steal the bait without getting hooked. William teased us, “I didn’t bring you here to feed the piranhas.”
Despite our fishing inexperience, we caught enough piranhas for lunch. I was startled to see my plate full of sharp, menacing looking teeth after I finished my meal.
On our way back from the Amazon, we were once again greeted by pink dolphins playing in the water. Massive barges chugged up and down the river, tossing our tiny boat in the water.
I have never felt so helpless in the wilderness before visiting the jungle. Simply touching a sapling tree to regain my balance immediately left my hand with four painful ant bites. In the lake, I would look down at the water knowing simply falling in had dangerous implications.
Despite the danger, the Amazon is an incredible place with extreme biodiversity. I was grateful that our tour guide, William, had grown up in the jungle and knew how to experience the wilderness safely.
The tour he offers is through Jungle Tours Gamboa and I highly recommend the experience — if you ever find yourself in Colombia.
-A02333587@usu.edu
Submitted photo