Eli’s RM-catchin’ chicken: Tender thighs in a creamy sauce

Fine wine, fine leather goods, fine people, and food that’s fly AF. Welcome to Eli’s Fancy Feast.

On the off chance I am sentenced to death (the chance being markedly higher here in Utah), I want a bucket full of Church’s fried chicken.

If you know me, you know that I love chicken, and the piece that winds up on my plate most often is the thigh. When done right, it’s juicy, tender and flavorful. That’s what we’re working toward today.

Frying chicken at home is not worth it; I will spare you biting into half-bloody chicken in front of your hot date and instead direct you toward Lee’s Marketplace, where a thigh will set you back the princely sum of $0.99. We will, instead, use a two-step cooking process to maximize the juicy goodness and class up this lowly piece of poultry.

This recipe is a hybrid of inspirations — the New York Times and a hippie boy who cooked me dinner in his bomb-proof house in northern California. The brief pan-frying of the chicken crisps the skin and adds a rich toasted flavor while the stewing component ensures the meat has time to relax and become tender. You end up with rich boneless chicken in a delicious creamy gravy. I call it Eli’s RM-catchin’ chicken.

First, one must debone the thighs, which with a decent knife is easy. You cut though the underside of the thigh directly to the bone and then carve around the bone, as closely as possible. This will yield a flat (if lumpy) piece of meat, with skin still attached.

Next, heat a large non-stick skillet over medium high heat with a splash of olive oil. Place the thighs skin down in the hot pan, frying them for 10 minutes, or until the skin becomes lightly golden and renders most of its fat, while seasoning the exposed sides with modest amounts of dried rosemary, thyme and salt.

Flip the chicken, drain off most of the grease, turn the heat to medium-low, add the diced garlic and cook for a minute or two, until you can smell the fragrant garlic.

Stir a tablespoon of flour into the oil and garlic at the bottom of the pan, then add enough white wine (or chicken broth with a splash of lemon juice) to cover the chicken 1/3 of the way along with a teaspoon of mustard. Let the wine boil and then turn the skillet to low. When it has calmed down, add enough milk so that the chicken is mostly covered.

Season with salt, pepper and ½ of a lemon’s zest.

Place a lid on the skillet and turn the heat to low, simmering for 20-30 minutes. The liquid should be the consistency of a light gravy.

I like to serve this dish over rice, sprinkled with green onions with a side of steamed spinach.

Wine pairing: Cline Viognier, North Coast. Notes of peach and lemon oil compliment the creamy chicken.

-eli.robinson@usu.edu