Q&A with fashion designer and USU alumnus Bibhu Mohapatra
Returning to USU after 23 years, Bibhu Mohapatra’s visit on March 24 included presentations for the business and art colleges along with an exhibition of his designs in the Nora Eccles Harrison Museum of Art.
Mohapatra, the world-famous fashion designer and alumnus of Utah State University, strives to challenge the lack of representation in the fashion industry.
Q: What kinds of representation are missing in the fashion industry?
A: I think there has been a lot of improvement in the last 10 or 12 years of representation of different backgrounds and gender. I would like to see more female designers. I would like to see more designers of color and from different cultures in America, because we are a diverse nation. We are a nation built by immigrants. I would like to see more of that kind of representation and definitely more female leaders in the design world. In addition to that, I think I represent where I come from, my heritage and being South Asian, being Indian. I really like it when I’m called an Indian American designer. That gives me the edge that gives my brand the edge that is unique to me.
Q: How have you used your position and influential voice to help change the representation you want to see?
A: Doing something about the status quo of things in a situation where certain things work for a group of people and the other groups stay in the shadows. I think change is a good thing. That doesn’t mean that adapting to change is an easy thing. Especially after what we are going through and what we have gone through over the last two years in the pandemic, I think we need to give change some credit and we need to be more open to shaking up things and doing things differently. Something that includes more of our communities more representation gender wise, race wise, culture wise. That is when things become more interesting. Me — as an individual, a creative individual, an immigrant and a minority — it is important for me that as a leader I welcome change. I make it very clear to my audience, my team, that we should evaluate what we have done in the past and what is the best way to move forward so we can address the issues of inequality and injustice. In our work we can send that message loud and clear and hopefully inspire each other.
Q: You asked USU to procure racially diverse models for your exhibition reception at the NEHMA. Did your time at USU impact your motivation and ways you want to make change in the fashion industry?
A: Definitely. When I came here to the graduate program, I met students from many different countries and cultures. My cousins already had a group of friends that were very diverse. Our gatherings included all those friends. I always tease Sarita that all her parties were like a party for the United Nations, because there were so many cultures present there. It was eye opening for me and it was an inspiration and it made me feel confident that I have a place here too. USU as an institution, it made sure that all felt welcome. That being said, do I want to see more diversity here? Of course. I would love to see more diverse representation, more diverse persons of color in the student bodies and faculty. That is something to aim for. My time here definitely, as a graduate student, opened my eyes to a lot of different cultures.
Q: Do you have a goal for how you want to impact representation in the fashion industry?
A: I have a goal. When I was looking to build my team, as I still do, it just happens that they have always been diverse. Different cultures. It’s always focused on what they bring to the table. Talent wise, skills wise. But the base of cultural background is never hindrance; it is actually a very strong point. In my team, I have Americans, I have South Americans, I have Asians, I have people from the Middle East. I want it to be more as I build my team up. I always want it to have a good representation because it is about learning. I still feel that I have so much more to learn about the world that is outside of my world. When I do a show, depending on the mood and theme of the collection, I want the representation to speak to that of the models. In my last show, I wanted to work with Beverly Johnson. She is incredible, she is 69 years old. She is famous for many things. She is an activist, a big voice for equality and race equality. She was the first model of color to be on the cover of American Vogue in 1974. She was so gracious. She closed the show. As it happened, the rest of the cast of models were all individuals of color. If you look at my collections and shows historically, it is always a mixture of different races. Could we be more diverse? Yes. We want to be more size inclusive, age inclusive. So those are the goals I have for my brand and the brand’s image.
Q: How would you like to see more representation in a university setting such as at USU?
A: There has been a lot more work. I have been gone from here for 23 years, but more programs that include different cultures and that creates the permeability of individuals who come from different backgrounds. Giving them more of a platform to share their stories amongst their peers or amongst the faculty members. Because we never, as human beings, never stop learning. There is so much more to know about each other. As individuals and as professionals, it sharpens our viewpoint and vantage point. It gives a new perspective. To look at something, a problem, a solution. I think the more we share about each other on a platform that has an audience, that will result in more compassion, more tolerance and more inclusivity. I think the university setting is the right setting. I was here, as a young student 26 years ago, I was soaking in everything. There are many firsts here. I had friends from Korea, I had friends from China, I had friends from the Middle East. It was all about getting to know them, their cultures, their food, it was amazing. I think more of those activities and more of those collaborations needs to be promoted more, it helps. I think the university has done a tremendous amount of work, but the more the better. More diversity the better.
Mohapatra concluded, “I want to congratulate all the students who attend here. This is a great institution that prepares one for the world that is waiting after this. I am so grateful to be back here and to see some of my friends, teachers and advisers. I am very, very humbled and very grateful to be back here. I can’t wait to be back again.”
-Maya.Mackinnon@usu.edu
Featured photo by: Katie Henderson